How Miyoshi could help you to boost performances in mascara formulation?

Home | Materials | How Miyoshi could help you to boost performances in mascara formulation?
12 September 2023

Retour à la liste

12 September 2023

Retour à la ligne

How Miyoshi could help you to boost performances in mascara formulation?

Mascara is one of the eldest color cosmetic product. The first evidence of such product had been found in ancient Egyptian civilization (3 000 before JC), and made of Antimony powder, soot and animal fat.

In 1880, Eugène Rimmel develops the first Mascara, made from Vaseline. Mascara even takes the name of Rimmel. First Mascara packed in a bottle with an applicator had been introduced in 1939 by Helena Rubinstein, and called “Mascara Matic”.

Innovation in this type of color cosmetic comes not only from formulation but also from packaging.

Most of mascaras form the market are emulsion and especially Oil in Water emulsion.


Typical composition of mascara

Type of ingredients Concentration Most represented
40 to 60%
Waxes and butters
5 to 10%
Beeswax, Copernicia Cerifera Cera(Carnauba) Wax, Synthetic Beeswax, Rice Bran wax
5 to 15%
Isododecane, Vegetal oils, paraffin
Castor Oil (as active)
5 to 10%
Black Iron Oxide, Ultramarine, Chromium Oxide green
2 to 5%
To bring volume: Silica, Talc, Rayon, Nylon, Cellulose
Film former
2 to 10%
Conventional: PVP, Acrylates, Polyurethanes.
Natural: Glyceryl rosinates, Dextrin Isostearate, Pullulan, Shorea Robusta Resin
Rheological agent
Water phase: Hydroxyethylcellulose
Oil phase: Disteardimonium Hectorite
5 to 10%
Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic acid, Palmitic Acid
Preservatives antioxydant
0,1 to 1%
Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Market analysis

Like most of cosmetics products, mascaras are revealing increasingly natural formulas, meeting the expectations of today’s consumers. Mintel database shows that almost 1/3 of Mascaras launched in Europe since 1st of January 2022 are VEGAN or Vegan Friendly (535 products analyzed).

Main performances related to mascara are:

  • Volumizing
  • Long lasting
  • Lengthening
  • Curling

The latest mascara innovations on the market obviously follow the general trends observed in cosmetics:

  • Hybridation:

The increased focus on skin health during COVID-19 has further driven women’s interest in makeup products with skincare benefits, and in turn new product development.

For example, hybrid makeup/skincare formulas can be marketed as helping consumers simplify their beauty routines or showcase an array of active hero ingredients…

Mascaras are fully integrated to this trend, Castor Oil being a key ingredient.

Please refer to our formula : length and care

  • Environment-friendly approach:

Eyelashes aren’t apart from eco-design, growing in cosmetic industry. Packaging are refillable, or made from recycled plastic.

Why using MiyoFLEX EV-Black in your mascara formulation?

We conducted a study to compare influence of the use of treated pigment and especially MiyoFLEX EV on performances in mascara formulations.

Mascara using MiyoFLEX EV-Black had been the most appreciated by the panel with the highest rate for:

  • Application,
  • Eyelash cladding,
  • Volume,
  • Lashes Separation,
  • Long wear,
  • Length

Conclusion of the study:

The use of treated pigments in mascaras allows a general improvement of make-up performances and can help especially for “natural” formulations.

The MiyoFLEX EV are completely indicated for such type of application:

  • Easing the process, product being into wax form
  • Lower grinding required
  • Clean and non-powdery

And improving performances that are key for consumer approbation such as:

  • Volume
  • Length
  • Long wear
  • Intense color
  • No transfer

Interested in this study? Please contact your sales representative for more details.

Salomé Gallon

Salomé Gallon

Formulation Chemist

Request a personalized study or an appointment with your sales contact