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1 July 2024
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1 July 2024
Miyoshi

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The skin microbiome, the new cosmetics revolution

The term Microbiome comes from the ancient Greek “micro” meaning small and “bios” meaning “life”. The first research into the impact of the microbiome on health is fairly recent, and focused primarily on the intestinal microbiome. However, the skin microbiome is currently a priority area of research and innovation in the world of cosmetics, as underlined by the multitude of active patents in 2022.

Defining the skin microbiome and influencing factors

    The cutaneous microbiome represents all the micro-organisms, including bacteria, fungi and viruses, that colonize the surface of our skin. These microorganisms play a crucial role in protecting against pathogens, regulating the cutaneous immune system, and maintaining the skin’s equilibrium.

    The cutaneous microbiome is subject to a variety of factors that influence its composition and balance. Among these, environmental conditions such as climate and pollution play a major role in modifying the diversity and abundance of microorganisms present on the skin. Intrinsic factors such as age, gender and genetics also determine the skin’s sensitivity and influence its microflora. Lifestyle, including diet and stress levels, can have a significant impact on the health of the skin microbiome. Finally, hygiene practices and the use of cosmetic products can also disrupt the natural balance of the microbiome, notably by eliminating beneficial bacteria.

     

    Skin microbiome and cosmetics

      The cosmetics market’s enthusiasm for the “microbiome friendly” claim reflects a growing awareness of the importance of the cutaneous microbiome in skin health. Consumers are increasingly aware of the benefits of a balanced microbiome, and are looking for products that not only care for their skin, but also respect its natural ecosystem.

      A recent study by Mintel shows that this interest is not limited to one region of the globe, but is a global concern.

        Extract from Patent Insights: Microbiome bodycare – January 2023

        This trend translates into increased demand for cosmetics formulated with gentle, natural ingredients, avoiding those that could disrupt the microbial balance.

        In response, cosmetics companies are investing in the research and development of products incorporating prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics, aimed at nourishing and strengthening beneficial bacteria. This innovative approach promises not only healthier, more resilient skin, but also a more sustainable approach that respects cutaneous biodiversity.

         Impact in the make-up sector

        The integration of the skin microbiome into make-up is very recent, and marks a significant shift towards products that not only beautify, but also protect and nourish the skin. Mintel lists some thirty products launched on the market worldwide since 2019, claiming no negative impact on the microbiome.

        Traditionally, make-up has been seen primarily as a means of enhancing appearance, using formulations that can disrupt the microbial balance. Make-up manufacturers are innovating by creating “microbiome-friendly” products that respect and support the skin’s flora. In addition to providing flawless coverage and vibrant colors, these products contribute to skin health, reducing the risk of irritation, inflammation and other skin imbalances.

        Ingredients approach

        Against this backdrop, Miyoshi Europe took an interest in the impact of its ingredients on the balance of the skin microbiome, and enlisted the help of My Microbiome, creator of the world’s first independent quality label for the microbiome acceptability of cosmetics and personal care products.

        Tests carried out by My Microbiome led to “Microbiome Friendly” certification for the NAI range of treated pigments in 2023, and more recently for Sericite S-150, the flagship ingredient in Miyoshi Europe’s portfolio, in both make-up and skincare formulations.

          Microbiome Friendly” certificate for Sericite S-150, obtained in April 2024

          Details of the results can be consulted directly on the My Microbiome website:

          https://www.mymicrobiome.info/en/microbiome-friendly-certified-products-catalogue?language=en&textsucheInput=&textsuche=&brand%5B%5D=71

           

            In conclusion, formulating with certified ingredients is the best way to obtain a product that maintains the balance of the cutaneous microbiome, and contributes to healthy skin. Miyoshi Europe is continuing its efforts to understand the impact of its ingredients on the microbiome, in order to always offer ingredients in line with market needs.

            Patricia Coupat

            Product Manager & Valorization

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