Microplastics in Cosmetics: Decryption, Challenges and Impact on the Environment

Plastics?

Plastics, invented in the early 20th century, have been used for over a century as an essential raw material in many industrial products. Their low cost, light weight, malleability and high resistance to water and chemicals make them an advantageous alternative to natural raw materials, despite their disadvantages. As a result, plastics have become a key material in the 20th century era of mass production and consumption.

However, this large-scale production has gradually given rise to growing concerns, particularly about environmental pollution. Plastics, in particular, have not escaped these concerns. As early as the 1960s, less than fifty years after their industrialization, the first debates on their ecological impact began.

In the 21st century, as a result of initiatives to combat global warming and the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), the once-vaunted qualities of plastic – a material that is affordable, derived from fossil resources and resistant to degradation – are now viewed more critically.

Plastic pollution of the oceans is now a major concern. When we think of this pollution, we often imagine bottles and bags floating on the surface, but the problem goes far beyond that. Microplastics, particles less than 5 mm in size, are also invading the oceans, and represent a far more insidious challenge than the waste visible to the naked eye.

What are microplastics?

Microplastics are tiny fragments of plastic, generally defined as less than 5 millimeters in size. They can be classified into two main categories:

Primary microplastics: These are plastic particles designed to be small in size. They include the microbeads found in some cosmetics and personal care products (such as skin scrubs and toothpastes), as well as the plastic granules used in industrial processes to manufacture various plastic items.
Secondary microplastics: These particles result from the degradation of larger plastic objects, such as bottles, bags and fishing nets. Over time, under the effect of environmental conditions (such as sunlight, wind and waves), these objects fragment into smaller and smaller pieces.

Like other consumer products, the 20th-century cosmetics industry used a lot of plastic in its containers and packaging. This led to the secondary microplastic pollution mentioned above.

So, are microplastics intentionally mixed into cosmetics as raw materials?

Primary microplastics in cosmetics :

Microplastics in cosmetics are small plastic particles intentionally added to various beauty and personal care products. These small plastic spheres (Microbeads) are often used in face and body scrubs, toothpastes and some body cleansers. They help remove dead skin cells.

In addition, spherical microplastic beads are widely used in make-up products because they can give a smooth, moisturized finish.

Once in the environment, they can :

Environmental impacts :

1. Ocean pollution: Microplastics from cosmetics, such as the microbeads used in exfoliants, are often rinsed down the drain. Many of them are not filtered by wastewater treatment plants and end up in rivers, lakes and oceans.
2. Ingestion by marine wildlife: Once in the aquatic environment, microplastics can be ingested by a variety of marine organisms, from small crustaceans to fish and marine mammals. This can lead to health problems for these animals, such as intestinal blockages, reduced hunger, and toxic effects due to the chemicals absorbed by microplastics.
3. Accumulation in ecosystems: Microplastics do not degrade easily and can persist in the environment for decades. Their accumulation can disrupt aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems.

Impact on human health and the environment :

1. Food chain: Microplastics ingested by marine organisms can enter the human food chain. Consuming fish and seafood contaminated with microplastics can potentially expose humans to toxic chemicals.
2. Direct exposure: Microplastics in some cosmetic products can also pose risks when applied to the skin. Although the direct effects are not yet fully understood, there are concerns about the potential penetration of microplastics into the human body.

Regulatory and societal pressures:

Growing regulations: In response to growing concerns, many countries have introduced regulations to ban or restrict the use of microplastics in cosmetics. For example, the European Union, the United States, Canada and other countries have passed laws to ban plastic microbeads in rinse-off personal care products.
Consumer demand: Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the environmental impact of the products they use, and show a growing preference for sustainable, environmentally-friendly products. This pressure is driving cosmetics companies to find alternatives to microplastics.

Action:

In response to these concerns, several measures and regulations have been put in place or are under development, including :

Biodegradable alternatives: The cosmetics industry is exploring and developing biodegradable alternatives to microplastics, such as particles based on cellulose, crushed fruit stones or other natural materials. Innovation in this field is one of the major challenges facing tomorrow’s cosmetics.

Conclusion

Growing awareness of the environmental impacts of microplastics has led to increased regulation and a growing search for sustainable alternatives. Consumers, by being informed and making informed choices, can also help reduce the use of these substances in their personal care routines.

Next time, we’ll be talking about the microplastic bead substitutes for cosmetics that raw material manufacturers are vying to develop.